Skinterviews: Licensed Esthetician, Tess Zolly
From YouTube to podcasting, here's why Dermaplus esthetician, Tess believes overall health should be step one of your skincare routine.
Skinterviews is a collection of skincare + beauty interviews curated and written by a licensed esthetician for all the skincare junkies of the world.
As I’m sure every esthetician student has done before their entrance to beauty school, searching YouTube videos always seems to help us identify more to understanding what’s ahead. I surely did my research. Constantly. One of the people I’d watch on rotation was Tess because she’s well-rounded in her profession. I followed her journey as a student to becoming a licensed professional, and now she’s an esthetician at San Francisco’s Dermaplus.
I had the wonderful opportunity to interview her and talk to her about skincare, body wellness, and more. Check it out below.
For those who may not know you or your story, tell us a bit about yourself.
TZ: So I am an esthetician which means I specialize in skin treatments essentially! This can be anything from extracting (popping pimples basically) to treating hyperpigmentation or helping to address signs of aging in the skin. I grew up wanting to be a writer actually and took the traditional college route where I studied creative writing and pr at Chapman University. I had countless internships and jobs in media, fashion, and magazines. I was working at E! News at the time actually when I realized I didn’t love my actual job, and my favorite thing to do was read the stories on our site about beauty. I wanted to know more about skin ingredients and how they affected the skin. Simultaneously I had this sort of life-changing facial and after I went back to work I couldn’t stop thinking about it so much so I decided to quit my job, move back home and go to beauty school. That was the same time I started YouTube, and it has grown to different forms of social media including podcasting, TikTok, and Instagram. I feel my community is very personal, close, and engaged— I recognize nearly everyone who comments still and has a relationship with many of them. My main message to young people is that you deserve to pursue your curiosities.
What does your AM skincare routine look like?
TZ: In the AM I focus on cleansing, hydrating, and protecting! Generally, I cleanse with a gentle cleanser, use a hyaluronic and aloe-based toner, apply vitamin c, an oil-free moisturizer, and SPF! I do this all after my morning workout.
We’re so focused on the skin on our face, some of us tend to forget the importance of caring for our bodies. You’re great at giving information about body care and wellness on your social media platforms. Are there any basic tips + tricks you’d like to share?
TZ: My main message with body care is that the body always keeps score. In dealing with an autoimmune disease I am always learning how important it is to listen to it— whether it is asking for more rest, good carbs, a walk versus a big workout, or hydration. Emotional health is just as important as what you eat or how you workout. Clean eating is great— but our bodies also pay a price when we are restrictive. You need fuel to live optimally. Packing a lunch and making yourself a nourishing dinner is something I prioritized in night school and it’s something I didn’t see most of my peers doing. But I truly believe eating well and caring for yourself affects the body deeply.
What are some of your favorite skincare products and brands, and why?
TZ: So I am biased but I truly believe in Dermaplus products— they are professional products that have stood the test of clinical trials and are proven to deliver results for the skin. They are what I use in the treatment room and when customizing skin routines for my clients. I know I can depend on them to give people life-changing results. If they didn’t work, people wouldn’t come back to me! What I love about them is that they are all plant-based so they utilize the power of botanicals found in nature— no synthetics— but are not over stimulating as many plant-based lines can be. They are mild and again, professional products that are highly potent and contain the highest quality active ingredients. My best advice to those who feel they have “tried everything” over the counter— at the drug store or Sephora— would be to invest in a core routine of professional products customized by an esthetician for your unique skin.
What pieces of advice can you give to estheticians in school?
TZ: A big piece of advice I would give young estheticians is that it’s easy to be overwhelmed by each service. Of course, you should learn and understand how to give all services— especially for most entry-level positions— but you don’t have to be a master of all. In fact, specializing is a beautiful thing that can bring you happiness doing what you love, clients who trust you to do one thing super well, identify you as an expert, and make more money. Also— that real learning truly does happen after school. Focus on getting comfortable touching clients’ skin and being sanitary. The rest will come if you keep practicing.
What are the biggest skin myths?
TZ: A big skin myth is that pores open and close and often people say they want smaller pores. The pore size can not truly be reversed, however keeping them clean and adequate exfoliation will keep them clean, making them look smaller and prevent them from expanding further. Some other ones I often hear— you shouldn’t wash your face in the AM, and splashing w water is more beneficial. This is actually more dehydrating and cleansing is important after sleeping as we excrete sweat and oil overnight. Lastly, the idea of a healthy tan. Unfortunately, tan skin on any level is damaged akin, and it is not only the worst thing you can do to age your skin, but melanoma is also the deadliest form of cancer. If I could tell my younger self one thing it would be to step away from the tanning booth and wear SPF, all over, every day. You will thank yourself in your thirties!
What skincare ingredients should every person have on their shelf?
TZ: Skincare is so personal and what makes it effective is that there is truly no one size fits all. However, I do believe all skin can benefit from calming ingredients like allantoin/chamomile, water-based hydration (hyaluronic acid or aloe— as long as they have no allergies), and SPF above all!!
We love good and healthy skin! Makeup blankets beautifully over great skin. Do you have a makeup routine? If so, please elaborate.
TZ: I think makeup gets a bad wrap, but it can actually be very healing and protective if you can find a non-clogging or non-irritating formula that works for you. My favorite is mineral makeup which tends to be non-comedogenic and protective against environmental and sun damage. It’s so gentle you could even use it post-facial or procedure in many cases. A few brands I love include Jane Iredale, ColorScience, Oxygenetix, and Bare Minerals.
I speak for many people when I say this pandemic has been taking a toll on my skin. Between the food I eat, the face masks to all-around stress, it’s a ceaseless whirlwind of exhaustion some days. What is your best advice for dealing with all of the above and finding the time to properly care for our skin?
TZ: As the largest organ is our body, if something is amiss internally, our skin is usually the first to reflect it. Diet, sleep, and mental health play a crucial roll in skin. If you are dealing with breakout or inflammation, an elimination diet for a couple of weeks can help pinpoint the problem— dairy, alcohol, sugar, and gluten are often major culprits for skin imbalance. I think something not spoken about enough is the relationship between stress and skin... acne, rosacea, psoriasis, eczema are just a few well-documented skin conditions linked to stress and depression. I think it’s so important to prioritize time for exercise (even walking), relaxation, and joy to relieve stress in your daily life. Singing in the shower, dancing around the house, meditation, facials, a nice meal— all forms of self-care! When it comes to product, if you notice inflammation, heat, breakout, try simplifying things and having a core routine of cleansing, moisturizer, and SPF— no actives. Introduce one new product at a time after a few days or a week. Extra things like masks and serums are great— but should be introduced once the skin is strong and balanced! Simple is usually best.
What are some of your favorite estheticians to follow?
TZ: Renée Rouleau, Nerida Joy, JoElle Lee, Noy Skincare and Dermaplus are some musts to follow. I have interviews on my podcast with these experts and many more— so many nuggets of wisdom in our interviews in regards to spa business, ingredient knowledge, and success as an esthetician!
You can follow Tess on Instagram, YouTube, or listen to her AMAZING podcast called “The Treatment Room” with fellow esthetician, Lauren Kruger.
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